By Ken Gordon
Editor’s Note: This is part of a series of reviews of restaurants that will participate in Flavors of Bedford, a Bedford Chamber of Commerce fundraiser, on November 8
Your humble Representative-Turned-Restaurant-Critic does not ask for much. A winning season for the Red Sox. The ability to convince the rest of the country of the simple truth that Brady and Belichick are indeed that good. And a stress-free place to take my extended family when my mother comes to town.
Well, the Red Sox camped out in the cellar for another season. The rest of the country holds onto their jealousy of the Patriots. But I have found a place I can take my aunts and uncles that will allow me to hold my head up high. And before you consider that this review may be more about issues involving my extended family than those arising from the restaurant, consider that Seasons 52 really does have it all. A varied menu, so those who don’t “do” a certain type of cuisine will find something they like. A helpful, efficient staff, willing to smile through even the most challenging questions. And a chef and cooking staff that turns out delicious lunches and dinners on a regular basis.
Maybe, just maybe, Seasons 52 can take its place as the Patriots among a very competitive restaurant scene. At least taking into account my extended family. You know, before going further with this review, I think I’ll pause for a glass of wine.
And Seasons 52 is just the place! It boasts 52 wines by the glass. You can tour the world from your table just by reading the extensive wine list. Sparking wines from France and Italy, reds from Sonoma, Oregon and Australia, whites from Napa Valley, Alsace and New Zealand. Even German Reisling with the Kabitnett designation. You can’t order them all, but you do have plenty from which to choose!
We began with one of the signature flatbread appetizers. We have ordered a few in our visits to Seasons 52 – both in Burlington and at one of its Florida locations before the restaurant arrived in town – and we’re partial to the Artichoke and Goat Cheese option, with spinach, onions and peppers, as well as the tomato/mozzarella. They come out hot and crispy, with fresh, delicious toppings as advertised. And they will provide diners with bread free of its gluten, upon request.
The dinner menu is balanced between poultry, meat, fish and seafood. All menu choices disclose their calorie count, so we can make wise choices. Or our mothers can make “suggestions.” Or we can order the entrée salads, including the Lump Crab Wedge salad, that includes a fresh, moist piece of crab on a crispy lettuce wedge (320 calories). Or the flat iron steak salad, consisting of a flavorful, lightly seasoned piece of beef with bibb lettuce, squash, onion and cheddar (510 calories). The dinner salads, ranging from $13.50 to $19.50, are an affordable choice.
My wife and I tend toward the seafood, so on a recent visit I ordered the Lemon and Herb Roasted Branzino and Breena tried the Carmelized Grilled Sea Scallops. There were no complaints from us! I tend to order by the principle that we should try dishes that my wife can’t make well at home. Those of you who know Breena know that doesn’t leave many options, and we often buy branzino (a/k/a Sea Bream) from our favorite fish monger, Carl Fantasia and New Deal Fish Market in Cambridge and make it at home. Season’s 52’s preparation was wonderful. It was brushed lightly with a sauce of Meyer lemon and thyme, and served with broccolini and potatoes. At only 430 calories and $27.90 it was a good deal. At only 20 calories more than the Branzino but a few dollars less (this is like a scorecard!) Breena loved her scallops. She described them a plump and moist, with a sweet, smoky flavor that’s hard to duplicate at home.
My step father enjoyed the Oak Grilled New York Strip so much he ordered it again. On the same visit. I won’t even record those calories. He said it was tasty and cooked the way he liked it. He’s a man of few words, so we’ll let his actions speak for him.
The Rack of Lamb was a real star, served with root vegetables and a pomegranate sauce. We were able to substitute out the root for the broccollini that came with a different dish without a problem. The meat was truly succulent, nice and rare, and very well seasoned. Likewise the half chicken was moist and tender, and received rave reviews from our party. And you can tell by now, that’s a high standard.
Word may have gotten out about Seasons 52’s wonderful dessert shots. We’ll stop reporting on calories right here, but they are delicious. Each are served in elegant, but disposable, clear cups and include a few spoons-full of pure joy. And it’s not often you get joy on a spoon. Our goal may be to go back enough times to try them all, but it’s hard to get past the wonderful key lime pie, the chocolate peanut butter, or the Belgian S’more. OK. I can’t write any more. I’m going back for another dessert.
Try Seasons 52. It’s worth every calorie you’re willing to invest. It’s delicious. It’s consistent. And it’s relaxing.
Ken Gordon is Bedford’s State Representative in the Massachusetts legislature, a member of the Bedford Chamber of Commerce, and a former restaurant reviewer on the North Shore.
By agreement with the Bedford Chamber, he does not announce visits to restaurants participating in Flavors of Bedford, so can objectively file these reports.
Gordon’s reviews will focus on restaurants participating in Flavors of Bedford, a fundraising event for the Bedford Chamber of Commerce.
Flavors of Bedford will take place from 4 to 6 pm on Sunday November 8 at the Doubletree Bedford Glen Hotel, 44 Middlesex Turnpike in Bedford. Tickets are $40 per person, with special senior and group rates. For more information and to buy tickets visit https://www.flavorsofbedford.org/tickets.html.
Flavors of Bedford benefits the Bedford Chamber of Commerce, and a portion of the proceeds will go to the Friends of Hanscom, an organization that supports military personnel at Hanscom Air Base in Bedford and though out New England.
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